What a gentleman wears

Hey guys

What are current men’s fashions like? I am considering a job where I would need some suits and such. I am boggled by the many alternatives. halp.

I need to know what’s current, what looks good on large, apelike men, and how to get a workweek worth of outfits out of less then five jackets.

I’m hoping some of you have some useful input here.

are you looking for advice on labels or cut, or what?

As a general rule of thumb, you should have two pair of pants to match each jacket. Two jackets will easily get you through a week so 4P/2J.

For free styling and measuring advice, go to any reputable suit store, get measured, get one of the rail dollies to suggest outfits etc and try a few on, then say you’ll think about it and fuck off somewhere cheaper now that you’ve got an idea what you’re looking for.

that’s what i did for work and i looked the don, until i stopped giving a fuck after a few months.

How large? how apelike?

You definitely don’t need 5 jackets. I’d say 2 to 3 (suits) is sufficient. Its the shirts and ties that make the difference, unless you’re planning to dress like Tom Wolfe people won’t notice the suit that much.

Also, where are you located again? and how much do you want to look at spending?

I will be going to a store, but the ones where I live mostly seem to serve morticians and accountants. Also, I have special needs sizing.

mrrt, I am like, about a 40" inseam? 55" jacket or so? 20" neck? Guesstimating here - I’m actually probably heavier then the last time I got a suit, so…

Basically, I’m fucked for life when it comes to off the rack stuff.

I do most of my clothes shopping in Denver (I live in Wyoming, for some reason). I can buy more over time, but I’d like to spend no more then $500-$1000 bucks short term (job starts in 3 weeks). If this means I end up having to stretch one suit with a few shirts until I can buy another one, that’s probably better then getting cheap shit.

fly to thailand and have them tailor make suits for you. hell, have them make some shirts as well!

while you’re there train muay thai, and get many massages.

although you may not save enough on the suits to pay for the trip (unless you wear designer suits like i do) it will be a wicked vacation.

Dude, seriously, you’ve probably got like a 23 inch neck, if you’re inseam is 40 and you’re a solid guy. I’m only 5’10" and my neck was 20 inches in high school.

Oh, ming! You and your vices! For shame!

you’ll have the royal court all a’titter.

Highschool being the last time I bought a suit, this makes sense.

Edit: Googling turns some things up.
[URL=“http://bp0.blogger.com/_qjpwnPW4c1o/RkmXFLmxvyI/AAAAAAAABNQ/PBiC9PE9Gg4/s1600-h/almostperfect.jpg”]
This guy for example has clearly spent some change on a suit, but it doesn’t seem to hit his wrists or ankles where I think it should

I’m told this suit fits but it looks a little pinched to me.

I’m looking for balance between “stuff should fit” and “My body is a horrible mass of glacial planes and awkward deposits of bone, muscle, and fat, so that isn’t a good idea”

honestly, that’s not bad advice. Go to Asia and get a cheap, high quality bespoke wardrobe. It will fit you like a glove and you won’t see Johnny jackass strutting through the mall jawing on his bluetooth wearing the same suit as you, making you both look like assholes.

Jesus I hate bluetooth headsets. Is there ANYONE who can wear one and not look like a douche?

I will keep a jaunt to a country with cheap suits in mind as long term advice, (if it saves you 1000$ a year it’s probably worth it, if you’re going to wear this shit all year) but I can’t go to Asia in the next three weeks.

Also, I DO know the very basics of suit buying - make sure it fits across the top first, pants should touch the shoes, barely, double breasteds are for old rich men and young gay men, etc, but I don’t know like, what ties are doing at the moment and shit.

Watch a James Bond film from any era except Timothy Dalton. Pay attention to the scenes where he’s wearing a suit that isn’t a dinner jacket (Tuxedo to you yanks). Copy.

That brings up a point

Is it hard to carry in a suit?

Worth thinking about but not de-railing.

Can a person wear something like this pair of boots with a gray or navy suit, or are they too dark?

Wear the weapon(s) in the holster(s) during your fitting.

The smaller the weapon, the less of a problem. However, if just about any member of the Secret Service can get a suit fitted which can decently conceal an Uzi SMG/H&K MP5/FN P90 plus their radio and backup weapons, getting a suit to fit shouldn’t be a problem for you.

:gay:

sorry but it is.

no offense.

Yeah but they have a bigger bankroll than our boy JC.

Have you considered buying some big off-the-rack stuff and having someone alter it for you?

Dude, with the right accessories a damn mp5 is frighteningly concealable.

I like something that makes my feet look less square. I wear a US 13 or 14 and a square toed shoe can look pretty goddamned bulky on my feet, esp as I may have to get a pair of dress shoes with rubber soles as a practical condsideration.

I’ve found a pointed boot to be a useful lifestyle coach for the misguided as well. Do you feel that way about every Chelsea or western boot? or did I just grab a ‘gay’ pair for an example?

That is probably what I will end up doing, although I will probably end up ordering online - I don’t think there’s a suit jacket in my size within 500 miles.

Wrists may be ok, but the pants are certainly short… and Holy Mother of God!!! Bright Orange/Brown shoes with dark blue pants, vest and suit??? Horrible combination, and a big no-no. He should be wearing black shoes with that color choice of suit and pants. Which brings me to the following:

  1. Shoes must match the choice of pants. The dude in the pic is not following that rule.
  2. Black shoes are your first choice - they go with most colors (except the very bright/light ones). Burgundy may be ok if you match them with dark brown. Brown shoes are ok, but the choice of pant colors they go well with is more limited.

Just a bit, but he has the right size for wrists and ankles. The other thing is that, in most work environments, you don’t need to button up the jacket (except in very formal meetings or in interviews.) The guy looks a bit pinched, but it’s ok (IMO).

Correct ankle lenght is the first priority, and wrist lenght is second. I say that because most of the time you can buy pants that are longer and they you have them shortened by a taylor - unless he fucks up, you’ll get the pants to the right lenght.

Jackets on the other hand, that may be harder (unless you get them taylor made or modified). Either they fit you well at the shoulders or waist, but they are too long or two short at the wrists… or they have the right arm lenght, but they don’t fit well at the torso.

This is going to be the hard part. My problem is with my neck. I can’t buttom up most shirts at the neck unless I buy them of size “large” (I’m small). It’s annoying.

Two jackets, 2 pairs of ties, 4-5 pants and 4-5 shirts should be more than enough. My suggestion is to look for earth or gray (medium to dark) or dark brown tones, like the dude in the second picture. Avoid blues (as the guy in the first picture) or light colors as they are not as formal for a business environment IMO (I think/feel blue is more appropriate for formal parties and ceremonies). Also avoid black, for obvious reasons. The only thing black in your formal dress should be your shoes and ties.

The guy in the second picture has a good color selection for the workplace. These are other color choices:

A. http://www.menswearhouse.com/media/images/products/division30/388643SJ/388643SJ_S07_DF_v4_m56577569830533767.jpg
http://www.menswearhouse.com/media/images/products/division30/388643SJ/388643SJ_S07_P_DCC_v4_m56577569830533769.jpg

B. http://www.menswearhouse.com/media/images/products/division30/354955CLA/354955CLA_S07_DF_v4_m56577569830533661.jpg
http://www.menswearhouse.com/media/images/products/division30/354955CLA/354955CLA_S07_P_DCC_v4_m56577569830533663.jpg

This is a selection I would not make (but that’s my personal preference)

C.http://www.menswearhouse.com/media/images/products/division30/354355LAU/354355LAU_S07_DF_v4_m56577569830533633.jpg

And avoid any light colors like this

D.http://www.menswearhouse.com/media/images/products/division30/387605JF/387605JF_S07_DF_v4_m56577569830533753.jpg

I will strongly suggest that whatever earth/gray colors you get, you should be able to combine any of your two jackets with any of your four pants, and if that’s not possible to at least be able to use one of your jackets with any of your pants.

This may sound complicated, but in reality, it makes things simpler and cheaper. Your priority is to the get the pants of the right lenght, first; then arm/wrist lenght second. The guy in the second pic you found, although he seems a bit ‘snuggy’, I think the jacket looks acceptable.

Or I may be off completely. I haven’t had a need to wear a suit in, like, 6 years. :tongue3:

– EDIT –

Oh, and no cowboy boots. :tongue6:

This may help for ideas. http://men.style.com/gq/fashion/landing?id=content_5655

Most of the clothes are probably going to be out of your price range, but you can get some ideas.

I have nothing to add except a request you let us know what you end up going with. You’re not the only one that ends up looking like a hired goon in a suit.

as far as dress shoes with rubber soles, it’s all about ecco shoes for that.

seriously.