Simple is better, especially if you don’t build things for a living. Don’t space the joists or rafters more than 2 ft.
And no, I was just teasing Rabbit.
How would you attach the joists to the beams?
Toenail used to be sufficient. Rafter ties are preferred, more recently.
Also, by beam, I presume you mean a load bearing member, not a decorative thing.
Yes along the top, it’ll be 10x16x8 framed with 4x4s and 2x4s for the king post trusses.
Obviously, you need to adhere to local and national building codes, so… that whole lawyer thing.
If you do 18 to 24 inch spacing on the rafters, and nail the joists directly in, you should be OK. If you’re going for a vaulted thing, that is sort of out of my expertise, I think there are some requisite verticals to make that happen, though.
I was wondering if wood screws would be good enough on their own but they probably are not.
Yah I was going with 24 inch
They have more lateral holding power than a nail, but they are compromised by their smaller diameter. You could do it, just plan for using more screws than you would nails.
Using offset angles is also helpful to guard against squeaks and such, regardless of the fastener. Take care that you don’t put everything in an angle that would reduce the roof’s strength against wind, though.
Speaking of squeaks…
Let’s talk about door hinges.
Let’s not. My house has settled horribly.
Let us talk about the best pier method. I probably only need 15-20.
According to their marketing wank, we have some of the best foundation specialists on earth, right here in ATX.
Also, for the record, I know stuff that I did a long time ago, for a living; @jnp currently does this stuff, for a living. Always take his word over mine.
Does JNP give out free advice or will he spend 15 minutes on it then charge me for 2hrs work?
I figure he’ll wander back sometime between sweeping Wrabbit droppings and the book of Face.
He’ll probably only charge you for 10 minutes, he’s good people, like that.
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Depends on what time of the month.
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Here’s the deal: I don’t know what your regulations are. You could put up three straws with some plastic wrap and call it a shed.
It is easy to find online vertical and horizontal load limits for structural lumber. Work backwards from your aesthetic design, and you will know exactly what you need.
It’s basically a wood shed with no walls and roof on top.
Same dimensions as the cheap metal thing he bought with the canvas roof.
So, if you just have 4 pylons (I think you said 4x4 timber) supporting the thing, you need to consider skewing due to weather and aging, in your design. I would incorporate some diagonal crosses, on both axis.
Or larger posts?
Nah, you need the bracing against horizontal movement. Going to a 6x isn’t going to improve that, on the size you are talking about.
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